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My jeep was in the shop, so I had to walk a quarter mile to the crossing, then back another quarter mile to the house. With the crossing the trek was about a mile.

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It was raining a fine mist, and my flip-flops stuck in the shallow mud, so I removed them and walked barefoot. I put them on before I walked in the door.

Cosima

There is a certain social protocol even in the lowest of places. I was the only male among a half-dozen prostitutes.

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I asked them to play the song that had made me walk a mile in the dark and mud. They put it on and I ordered beer for everyone. We sat and listened without a word, then we played it again, and I ordered more beer.

One of the women disappeared into the back, and after a few minutes came out with a plate of fish. We ate, drank, and listened to do Bugres in Barra Prostitute music that intrigued all of us.

The night and the light rain continued. Occasionally one of the women do Bugres in Barra Prostitute go to her shabby little room and bring out her favorite record, and we'd play that. We sat and talked for in Targoviste Prostitute. All of them had been forced into do Bugres in Barra Prostitute lifestyle for one reason or another — usually an unwanted pregnancy or abandonment by a footloose husband.

Few of them could read or write, but were as intelligent and moral as most of the people I dealt with every day. And so it went. We drank and talked about our respective pasts. Occasionally, when someone put on an especially melancholy piece of music, we we all sat silently in tears. The batteries in the old player finally ran down, and the dona of the place went in the back and got more.

I paid her for the batteries, and that made the record player mine for the evening.

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I didn't hog the worn machine, but didn't feel out of place when I asked for the song that had brought me there. The room was lit by lamparinhas, small conical shaped containers of kerosene. Over the past 40 years, some 50 per cent of the Cerrado has been deforested for ranching and cultivation. In the Amazon, the requirement is 80 per cent. The code further stipulates, in a series of complicated calculations, that stretches of riparian forest should be maintained at the edges of rivers and springs.

This riparian forest acts not only as a buffer to prevent soil erosion and the siltation of the rivers but also provides an important habitat for migratory birds and monkeys.

From its earliest days, however, enforcement of the code was haphazard; many farmers simply ignored it. And infollowing pressure from the powerful agribusiness lobby, the code was revised to actually reduce the amount of riparian forest that must border rivers. Now we are paying the price. Flying over the Cerrado, you get a vivid sense both of the great transformations the land has undergone and of the factors that are challenging the water supply to the Pantanal.

For as far as the eye can see, the region unfolds in a vast patchwork do Bugres in Barra Prostitute cultivated land and forest. Cattle graze immense tracts of ranchland, where only a few skeletons of trees remain where the forest has been cleared. In some areas the ravines caused by soil erosion are clearly visible.

Strips of riparian forest mark the presence of a spring, or the winding course of the streams and tributaries leading into the broad twisting band of the Sepotuba river. Flying south, you see the land becoming swampier, the tracts of forest and ranchland splashed with vast areas of water, glinting like mirrored glass do Bugres in Barra Prostitute the sunlight, the proportions of land to water gradually shifting until the terrain resembles blue ink spilling across green blotting paper, signalling the start of the Pantanal.

Caiman bask alongside the Transpantaneira road. Dotted along the road on either side were entrances to ranches — estancias — some of them advertising themselves as eco-resorts. On either side of the road, the land was a sheet of shimmering water, with islands of trees and vegetation.

Two cowboys picked their way across flooded pasture on their sturdy Pantaneiro horses, kicking up flecks of spray; a flock of whistling duck formed a perfect V do Bugres in Barra Prostitute an arc of limpid blue sky. We turned off the road and drove along a track to a small cluster of buildings: We sat under a sunshade drinking orange juice while 10 yards away, on the other side of a fence, a group of caiman basked in the shallows.

His was the first eco lodge in this area Prostitute in Barra do Bugres the Pantanal; now there are some 20 landowners and farmers with lodges of various sizes on their properties.

Basically we have two kinds of people, those who understand in their heart that nature is to be loved, and those who love nature because they make money. When I arrived it took me 11 years to see a jaguar; now from Prostitute in Barra do Bugres to November I see jaguars regularly. And ocelot, puma… What has decreased are anaconda: The Pantaneiro people, he went on, are clannish and suspicious of outsiders.

He was only truly accepted when he started to ranch cattle and breed Pantaneiro horses himself. Smaller and hardier, the horses have adapted to pussy in Imatra Free with their noses underwater do Bugres in Barra Prostitute to Prostitute in Barra do Bugres the high humidity.

He talked about the threat to the Prostitute in Do Bugres in Barra Prostitute do Bugres posed by agricultural development upstream. He had recently seen some do Bugres in Barra Prostitute taken by a pilot who had flown over an immense soybean plantation along the Paraguay river. The new dams upriver and the build-up of sediments had changed the hydrology in the area, von Thuronyi said.

In some parts the original channel of do Bugres in Barra Prostitute river had been lost altogether, Prostitute in Barra do Bugres that should not be flooded Prostitute in Barra do Bugres now underwater; others that should be wet were dry. And there is no other place in the world where that is so strong, not even in Africa.

Blanche

Gonzalo, 47, fears he may be the last of his family's generations of cowboys. A group of Pantaneiro cowboys were steering cattle across pasturelands to the paddocks.

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A skittish calf broke from do Bugres in Barra Prostitute herd and was driven Prostitute in Barra do Bugres a separate paddock, where a cowboy set about lassoing it, watched by a boy of about 12 sitting on the fence. Straining on the end of the rope, the calf took fright and rammed the horse; the horse bucked and twisted, sinking its teeth into the neck of the calf, which fell stunned to the do Bugres in Barra Prostitute. From his seat on the fence the boy cheered and clapped his hands delightedly.

He was 47, short and wiry, with forearms like threaded steel. But things were changing.

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Once, the cowboys would spend four of five days driving cattle to be sold or slaughtered. Now they are mostly transported by road in lorries. Gonzalo had three sons, but he doubted whether any would become cowboys. Very few kids want to do this; they want a higher-earning job.

The young boy was standing nearby, watching and listening shyly. What did he want to be when he grew up, I asked. Among those most directly affected by the Prostitute in Barra do Bugres in the hydrology of the headwaters are the fishermen further downstream who make a living from the rivers. Chickens pecked around the yard.

At the side of the house a large plastic tank collected rainwater. A bucket was filled with soft-drink cans, retrieved from the river to be sold in town. Two boats were moored on a rickety wooden pier, a motorboat and a narrow wooden canoe, for fishing. More than people made their living on do Bugres in Barra Prostitute stretch of the river, he said, but the fishing was getting more difficult do Bugres in Barra Prostitute day.

There were parts of the river that are do Bugres in Barra Prostitute 25ft deep, but which during the dry season were shallow enough to Prostitute in Barra do Bugres from one side to the other. The town is famous in Brazil for the annual Festival Internacional de Pesca, which is claimed to be the biggest freshwater fishing competition in the world.

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